The Science of Big Waves

Pre-viewing:

1. Where do ocean waves come from? What gets them started?
• ocean waves come from the action of the wind blowing across them out in the ocean. first the wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves. these ocean waves react with the countours of the land and various other aspects that shape the coastal environment when they hit the shore to form one of the three different kinds of waves.
2. What do you think a surfer should know about waves before they try and ride a wave while surfing?
• i think a surfer should be familiar with the location that they are surfing in, and the beach that they are at. a good surfer would know the various rips and have enough experience to make good judgements and decisions. it would also be very important to know what types of waves the beach usually has. whether they're spilling waves, plunging waves or surging waves.

Question for the Video:

1. Observe all the waves that you see and describe how they form and break. Use as many words found in the segment for you descriptions.
• the "maverick" waves would be classified as plunging waves as they build up coming in from the ocean before they peak and dump over the reef, causing massive swell and huge waves for experienced board riders. most of the other waves in the video are of this same type of wave. they all bend around a reef to meet the countours of the land, and then when they hit the reef shelf their size and ferocity strenghtens significantly.
2. Describe how waves are formed, how they originate, and how they are measured?
• waves are formed by the wind out in the middle of the ocean. as the wind blows across the ocean it forms ripples and over a period of time these ripples gradually get bigger forming waves. A wave is measured by three things. its height, the time from crest to crest (wavelength) and the distance between two periods
3. What is a maverick wave and what is special about the way it is formed?
• the maverick wave on the north coast of california is special because it is classified as one of the biggest wave breaks in the world. the waves are formed in huge low pressure systems out in the pacific ocean of the coast of alaska. these low pressure systems transfer an enormous amount of energy and give it to the waves through the form of huge storms.
4. How is energy stored and transferred during wave?
• the energy in a wave is tranfered through the water, the water itself does not move but instead rotates in a circular motion. as the wave and its energy nears the shore the energy under the wave is compressed by the ever decresing depth of the water. when this happens the pressure builds which causes the height of the wave to go up. when the wave reaches breaking point it surges over in one of three possible wave types - spilling, plunging or surging waves.
5. List any kind of advice given by the surfers about how to survive these “big waves.”
• one of the most evident pieces of advice provided by the big wave surfers is to know what your up against, and be an experienced surfer who knows what faces him. inexperience in big wave surfing is one of the most dangerous aspects that could get you seriously injured or killed. another piece fo adivce given by the experienced surfers is to get in on the wave early before the wrath of the waves becomes so fierce its impssible to ride.

Homework:

1. Design a blog post on your blog of Maverick waves from different parts of the world. Be sure to describe the geography and the topography of the ocean floor in these areas and how this helps create these massive waves.

Teahupo'o is a village located on the south-west coast of the small island known as tahiti in french poynesia. it is home to the massive surf break known as "Chopes", which is known for it's heavy, glassy waves that often reach 2 to 3 metres high (7-10 ft), and higher on certain occasions. it is home to the annual billabong pro Tahiti surfing competition and also part of the World surfing championship.

Teahupo'o is a reef break. it is mostly left breaking, but when surfers journey to the outer reef there is also some right breaking waves which is extremely dangerous if you get caught up in one. this surfing break is also renound for the tremendous and consistent amount of barrels it provides for surfers. many famous surfers have regarded this location as "a must surf" spot for other enthusiastic surfers who are seeking a challenge.

as you can see the small village of Teahupo'o is located in the south-western area of the island, which is located in the middle of the pacific ocean, halfway between Australia and America.